SHOALING AND REFLECTION OF NONLINEAR SHALLOW WATER WAVES

Depth inversion in shallow water based on nonlinear properties of shoaling periodic waves

Ž . Two depth inÕersion algorithms DIA applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a Ž . two-dimensional numerical waÕe tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow FNPF theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on...

Depth inversion in shallow water based on nonlinear properties of shoaling periodic waves 1

Two depth inversion algorithms applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on sets of values o...

Nonlinear edge waves and shallow-water theory

Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water

The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow-water waves. Two methods of approach are used. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral-wave components in a slowly varying two-dimensional domain. The second method modifies the K-P equation (Kadomtsev & Petviashvili 1970) to incl...

Shallow Water Waves and Solitary Waves

Glossary Deep water A surface wave is said to be in deep water if its wavelength is much shorter than the local water depth. Internal wave A internal wave travels within the interior of a fluid. The maximum velocity and maximum amplitude occur within the fluid or at an internal boundary (interface). Internal waves depend on the density-stratification of the fluid. Shallow water A surface wave i...